The wine world has a reputation for being notoriously intimidating and exclusive; consider the infamous, expletive-laden scene in the 2004 Oscar-winning film Sideways where Miles, a wine enthusiast played by Paul Giamatti, declares, “If anybody orders Merlot, I’m leaving.” Thankfully, the industry has evolved since then, becoming a landscape that values community and connection. 

It’s a welcoming spirit that’s been embraced by Kyle Paton, a sommelier, master of Champagne and the founder of Meanwhile Wines. This Canadian wine agency represents the best producers from Champagne, Burgundy, Piedmont and beyond. With a background playing bass and touring with a punk-rock band, he’s an unlikely oenophile who didn’t have a sip of alcohol until the age of 27 and whose interest in wine stems from a place of curiosity and romance. But after working as a chef at world-class dining establishments like Noma in Copenhagen and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Upstate New York, Paton’s curiosity about wine piqued.

Natural wine was his entry point; the unique energy and emotion he discovered in every bottle inspired him to study the classics and train as a sommelier. From there, Paton developed exclusive wine lists as a sommelier at Restaurant Pearl Morissette in Jordan, Ontario, before launching Meanwhile in 2018, bringing his thoughtful curation to the top restaurants and collectors in Canada. 

For those with an interest in developing their own personal wine collection, Paton offers the following advice on getting started, honing a special curation, and making it fulfilling. 

Start with why

Before stocking the cellar, Paton recommends determining the purpose of a collection. Is it to sell? Enjoy in the near future? Or to simply collect? “That’s a really big factor because, in a lot of classic wine regions, the bottles are temperamental,” Paton says, citing a bottle of Bordeaux as an example. “It’s going to be very tannic and will need a little bit of bottle age, so if you’re buying that to be opened at a dinner party next week, it may not be the correct choice.” 

Embark on a quest for an ideal terroir

Sampling wine from regions around the world is a great way to hone in on what’s most enjoyable. Once that’s determined, Paton says it’s a good idea to focus on one area, thereby developing an authority on it. Paton says, “No one can know everything, but you can get pretty honed in on an area that you really like.”

Assess the storage situation

Determining the location and size of the available cellar will guide the collection. Paton points to services for short-term storage, such as the Vintage Conservatory, a storage-equipped private wine club in Toronto where bottles can be opened and enjoyed on site. There are options for long-term storage, too, like Fine Wine Reserves, where cases can be safely kept for decades. For at-home storage, a cellar is ideal. However, a wine fridge may not be. “Wine fridges are just meant to keep wines cold,” Paton says. “Unless you’re spending thousands of dollars on one that’s shockproof and meant for aging, it will slowly destroy your wine.” 

Build relationships

Like many luxury goods, access to the world’s best wines comes down to cultivating relationships. “There’s so little of it and so much demand,” Paton says. His advice? Build relationships with importers who will not only open doors to top-notch producers but also consider each person’s individual likes and dislikes. “It goes beyond just getting a bottle of wine. It’s about having someone learn your palate as well. You’re basically getting a sommelier to help you curate your cellar for free.”

Pour with intention

When the time comes to open a bottle or two, it’s worth taking a moment to consider who else will be indulging. “You want to make sure that you’re opening the right wine for the right people,” Paton says. At a client meeting, for example, it’s a good idea to open something recognizable yet slightly off the beaten path, which creates conversation. A super high acid and complex Champagne may be better suited to a night with fellow wine lovers than it is to Thanksgiving dinner. 

Tell a story

The vine-to-table process takes years, if not decades, and involves incredible heritage and expertise. “Every wine has a story and, if it doesn’t, it’s not worth buying,” Paton says, adding that talking about wine is as good an education as drinking it. 

Connect with others

There are plenty of social benefits to wine collecting, not the least of which is spending time with members of the wine community, a group that tends to be very engaged and passionate. “I have personal relationships with every single one of my clients, whether it’s going out for dinner together, travelling or even just a group chat on WhatsApp,” Paton says. “There’s a lot of community that comes from collecting, and the best part about wine is sharing wine.” For collectors, the real treasure isn’t the bottles themselves, but the social bonds they uncork.

Building an excellent wine collection isn’t about exclusivity, but intentionality. Starting with a purpose will help in curating a collection that is both personally fulfilling and well worth sharing.