The textile industry is responsible for incredible beauty: eye-catching patterns, luxe fabrics, even the cozy cotton of your favourite hoodie. But creating these materials can have severe environmental impacts. Innovative scientists and start-ups are working to repair that damage by seeking alternatives to animal- and petroleum-based materials, and they’re finding them in nature.
Many luxury brands—most notably devout vegetarian Stella McCartney—are now using sustainable, bio-based and next-generation fabrics sourced from kelp, mushrooms and even bacteria to bring their designs to life. And the growth potential is piquing the interest of investors worldwide, with alternative textile start-ups raising US$500 million in capital in 2023, a year-over-year increase of 10 per cent. Here are five bio-based materials making news right now.
Seaweed-based “yarn”
Regenerative and resilient, seaweed is an ideal resource for sustainable material innovation. KelsunTM, by North Carolina–based Keel Labs, is a soft, pliable fabric made from kelp-derived biopolymers.
Where you’ll see it: Luxury designer Stella McCartney debuted KelsunTM looks in her Summer 2024 Ready to Wear show in London.
The money: McCartney launched the Collab SOS Fund with venture firm Collaborative Fund to support Keel Labs and other green start-ups.
Mycelium-based “leather”
Mycelium, the internal structure of mushrooms, can be used to create surprisingly realistic leather alternatives, including Reishi™, by U.S. biotech company MycoWorks.
Where you’ll see it: Cadillac used Reishi™ in the interior of the SOLLEI, its luxury electric concept car. It’s also a fave of McCartney’s.
The money: After raising US$125 million in funding, MycoWorks opened a facility in 2023 that can produce millions of feet of Reishi™ for luxury clients.
Bacteria-based bug “leather”
Modern Synthesis, based in London, U.K., crafts a leather alternative with the help of sugar-eating bacteria. These “bugs” create nanocellulose that, when combined with hemp or linen, makes a leather-like material.
Where you’ll see it: Danish luxury designer GANNI partnered with Modern Synthesis to create the “Bou Bag” in 2023. It will be available for purchase in 2025.
The money: The company secured US$5.5 million in funding in February 2025.
Natural collagen-based “leather”
PACT, a biomaterials company based in Cambridge, U.K., has created Oval, the world’s first material made from collagen.
Where you’ll see it: It’s too early to confirm, but there has been interest in Oval’s capabilities from luxury fashion and home interior labels, per the company.
The money: PACT has raised about €10.7 million in funding (around $15 million CAD, $11 million USD), which has allowed it to occupy a larger HQ and production facility.
Plant-based, biodegradable “fur”
Get the
Three from 3
newsletter
Join our global community of sharp, curious thinkers to receive a carefully curated email of the three most important things to read, see and do this week.
Listen and learn.
Tune into Third Culture Leaders, a podcast hosted by our co-founder and publisher, Muraly Srinarayanathas.
Explore how leaders skillfully navigate multiple cultural landscapes, leveraging their diverse backgrounds to drive innovation and change.
Savian is the world’s first 100 per cent plant-based alternative to fur, shearling and plush. Made from a proprietary process involving the fibres from hemp, nettles and flax, it’s made by biomaterials start-up BioFluff.
Where you’ll see it: McCartney debuted the “no fur-fur” as part of her pre-Fall 2024 collection.
The money: BioFluff’s founders secured US$2.5 million in financing in 2023 from Astanor Ventures and counts McCartney as a partner.
For more thought-provoking stories and exclusive content, subscribe to 3 magazine’s print and digital editions today!