The textile industry is responsible for incredible beauty: eye-catching patterns, luxe fabrics, even the cozy cotton of your favourite hoodie. But creating these materials can have severe environmental impacts. Innovative scientists and start-ups are working to repair that damage by seeking alternatives to animal- and petroleum-based materials, and they’re finding them in nature.
Many luxury brands—most notably devout vegetarian Stella McCartney—are now using sustainable, bio-based and next-generation fabrics sourced from kelp, mushrooms and even bacteria to bring their designs to life. And the growth potential is piquing the interest of investors worldwide, with alternative textile start-ups raising US$500 million in capital in 2023, a year-over-year increase of 10 per cent. Here are five bio-based materials making news right now.
Seaweed-based “yarn”
Regenerative and resilient, seaweed is an ideal resource for sustainable material innovation. KelsunTM, by North Carolina–based Keel Labs, is a soft, pliable fabric made from kelp-derived biopolymers.
Where you’ll see it: Luxury designer Stella McCartney debuted KelsunTM looks in her Summer 2024 Ready to Wear show in London.
The money: McCartney launched the Collab SOS Fund with venture firm Collaborative Fund to support Keel Labs and other green start-ups.
Mycelium-based “leather”
Mycelium, the internal structure of mushrooms, can be used to create surprisingly realistic leather alternatives, including Reishi™, by U.S. biotech company MycoWorks.
Where you’ll see it: Cadillac used Reishi™ in the interior of the SOLLEI, its luxury electric concept car. It’s also a fave of McCartney’s.
The money: After raising US$125 million in funding, MycoWorks opened a facility in 2023 that can produce millions of feet of Reishi™ for luxury clients.
Bacteria-based bug “leather”
Modern Synthesis, based in London, U.K., crafts a leather alternative with the help of sugar-eating bacteria. These “bugs” create nanocellulose that, when combined with hemp or linen, makes a leather-like material.
Where you’ll see it: Danish luxury designer GANNI partnered with Modern Synthesis to create the “Bou Bag” in 2023. It will be available for purchase in 2025.
The money: The company secured US$5.5 million in funding in February 2025.
Natural collagen-based “leather”
PACT, a biomaterials company based in Cambridge, U.K., has created Oval, the world’s first material made from collagen.
Where you’ll see it: It’s too early to confirm, but there has been interest in Oval’s capabilities from luxury fashion and home interior labels, per the company.
The money: PACT has raised about €10.7 million in funding (around $15 million CAD, $11 million USD), which has allowed it to occupy a larger HQ and production facility.
Plant-based, biodegradable “fur”
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Savian is the world’s first 100 per cent plant-based alternative to fur, shearling and plush. Made from a proprietary process involving the fibres from hemp, nettles and flax, it’s made by biomaterials start-up BioFluff.
Where you’ll see it: McCartney debuted the “no fur-fur” as part of her pre-Fall 2024 collection.
The money: BioFluff’s founders secured US$2.5 million in financing in 2023 from Astanor Ventures and counts McCartney as a partner.